Portugal’s Wild Algarve: Sun, sea and sand – without the crowds

Travel journalist Deirdre Mullins finds calm, wild beauty, and a slower pace of life on a nature and wellness escape in Sagres and the Vicentine Coast in Portugal.

The trail to Praia do Canal beach winds through a palette of greens, grasses, scrub and pines, punctuated by bursts of colourful wildflowers. I hadn’t seen another soul in miles. Just the rhythm of my steps, the wind in the trees, and the slow, quiet unfolding of a different pace of life.

After a busy spell, and still in recovery from a bike accident that left me with a badly broken arm, I needed a holiday that wasn’t about doing or ticking off tourist attractions. I needed stillness, to switch off and soothe my nervous system.

Sun, yes, but without crowds.

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The Algarve, long known for its beach resorts and busy coastlines, still has corners where time feels slow, and Sagres and the Vicentine Coast offer just that. What drew me to this lesser-known southwestern corner was that it isn’t built up: no high-rises, no overdevelopment, just open cliffs and clean air.

After arriving at Faro airport, I deleted all of my social media apps and promised myself to swap screen time for nature time.

I  hired a car and headed for the sleepy surf town of Sagres, situated on a rugged peninsula that juts straight into the Atlantic. After an 80-minute drive, I arrived at the quite low-rise town, where surfers hang out in bars and campervans line the beach.

It’s a year-round surf destination with both south and west-facing beaches offering conditions for all levels. But I wasn’t here for the surf; I came for the long, sandy, almost empty beaches, of which there are many. Most of the town’s inhabitants seemed to be out at sea, bobbing on their boards, waiting for waves.

Much of Sagres’ accommodation is self-catering, with surfers keeping the demand high. However, I stayed at the four-star Mimmo Balearic Hotel, whose muted tones and spacious layout were instantly calming. My room had a sea view overlooking the cliffs and a working port, where small boats brought in the day’s catch; thankfully, not a flashy yacht in sight.

The hotel features an outdoor pool, a decent spa, and morning yoga. But the cherry on their wellness cake was their Living Well brochure beside the bed, which included QR codes for guided meditations for sleep and calm. I had arrived. I put on a yoga Nidra and drifted into a deep rest.

As expected, the seafood in Sagres was fresh and delicious. A Tasca is a rustic fish house by the pier with old wooden beams, pebbled floors, and wine bottles cemented into the walls. I had fresh seabream, deboned at the table, served with garlic potatoes and green beans. Another excellent seafood restaurant is Carlos, which has been in operation for 35 years. Try the ‘grandmother’s recipe’ – fish baked in herb-infused oil. No frills and unbeatable freshness.

Hiking, biking and surfing are the names of the game in Sagres, and many tour companies offer whale and dolphin-watching trips. I opted for less adventurous sightseeing, including the 15th-century Sagres Fortress, built by Henry the Navigator. It’s worth the trip for the clifftop views alone, and the small museum inside also offers insight into Portugal’s maritime history during the Age of Discovery.

Close by is Cape Saint Vincent, the most south-westerly point of mainland Europe. Once thought to be the edge of the world, today, its draw is the dramatic cliffs, powerful waves, and iconic red lighthouse. It’s windswept and wild, and the sunsets are spectacular.

I also ventured to the more developed tourist town of Lagos to take a cooking class at The Kitchen, run by a warm local named Joanna. “I like to connect people through food,” she said, and she did just that. We began at the local fish market, gathering ingredients for a seafood cataplana, a traditional dish of monkfish, vegetables, and potatoes steamed in its own juices.

Deirdre Mullins taking a cooking class in Lagos

Back in the kitchen, we prepped our feast while sipping wine and playing local trivia games that brought out the competitive side in everyone. The cataplana was so delicious, I bought my own cataplana copper pot to get a taste of the Algarve in Dublin.

After the class, I had a pleasant wander around Lagos’s old town and the golden limestone cliffs at Ponta da Piedade, which are both dramatic and stunning.

After three nights in Sagres, I went deeper into the quiet and relocated to the Vicentine Coast Natural Park. One of Europe’s most unspoiled coastal regions, the park spans over 100 kilometres, stretching from Porto Covo in the Alentejo to Burgau in the Algarve.

Ponta da Piedade in Lagos

Protected since 1988, it’s a diverse landscape of cliffs, beaches, rolling hills, and wildflower meadows. It’s home to rare birds, unique plants, and a whole lot of peace and quiet; the kind of place where both nature and people can breathe a little easier.

A bumpy, dust-choked ride along a potholed dirt track wasn’t quite the grand entrance I’d expected from a five-star resort. But the roughness only heightened the sense of arrival. Praia do Canal Nature Resort emerges like a hidden sanctuary, an unexpected pocket of luxury carved into the wilds of the nature park.

Sandstone in colour, echoing the hues of the Algarve cliffs, the resort blends into its surroundings. There’s something almost casbah-like about it: low-slung and earthy, yet quietly elegant. The minimalist architecture, natural materials, and calm aesthetic all work to keep your attention on the real star, the wild landscape around you. Rolling hills, an untamed coastline, and a vast open sky set the tone.

Pool with a building in the background

The hotel’s small but beautifully appointed spa, along with a large outdoor infinity pool overlooking the nature reserve and the Atlantic Ocean, made it very difficult to leave. It’s the kind of place that pulls you in and slows you down, which is precisely what I needed. Several walking trails begin right from the resort, winding through meadows and scrubland, with only the sound of the birds and the breeze for company.

The only time I tore myself away was to visit the mountain village of Monchique. The drive winds upward to the Algarve’s highest point, Foia, at 902 metres, where, on a clear day, views stretch across the region. It was unexpectedly chilly, so I skipped the hike and checked out the town instead, which was colourful, artsy, and filled with bohemians selling handmade crafts.

DeirdreMullins in Monchique

After a spot of shopping, I tucked into a hearty mountain meal at A Charrette; think slow-cooked lamb and pork stews in a cosy, antique-filled setting.

On the way back to the Vicentine Coast, I spotted several storks nesting on treetops and telephone poles. This striking, almost surreal sight captured the quiet magic of this corner of the Algarve. Just like Praia do Canal Nature Resort, it was a reminder that here, nature isn’t something you pass through; it’s something you settle into.

I arrived in the Algarve tired and restless; I left grounded, unhurried, and more myself. Exactly what I’d come for.

The Details

Deirdre Mullins was a guest of Algarve Tourism. For more information on the region, visit visitalgarve.pt.

• Car hire from Visacar
• Sagres Hotel – Memmo Baleeira Hotel
• Cooking class took place at The Kitchen
• Praia do Canal Nature Retreat

You can follow Deirdre’s travels on Instagram at @deirdremullins.