Discovering Tunisia with Travelbiz

A mausoleum is an unusual place to stop in Tunisia. However, when it’s a beautiful piece of architecture and revering the very first President, then it’s worth a visit. Until 1957, Tunisia was a Kingdom and under French influence, then Habib Bourguiba was elected President and ruled until 1987. He introduced strict secularism, modernity in cultural matters and brought economic development.

This independence from France saw a country move into the modern world and, today, Tunisia is no longer backward nor ultra conservative, but a place where women have rights and free choice. Many still choose to wear the hajib, but importantly, it’s observed as a personal choice. In the Mausoleum, Bourguiba’s tomb is encrusted in gold with intricate marble fretwork and is raised on a plinth surrounded by stunning tiled arches and a spectacular ceiling. It’s a resting place worthy of a beloved leader.

Although I’d been to Tunisia several years before, this trip courtesy of TUI and the Tunisian National Tourist Office UK & Ireland led by Mr Mancef Battikh, brought a whole new perspective and a real local touch. Apart from being a sun, sea, sand destination for the holidaymaker (and it is), Tunisia teems with history and is a cultural shiny gold star. Based initially on the outskirts of Hammamet, TUI Palm Beach Hotel was home for 4 nights. A delightful all-inclusive, the hotel is beachside and set in gorgeous gardens. Great food, super service and warm friendly staff were the highlights.

The capital Tunis is surprisingly modern, busy and tinged with European traces, but nonetheless an African city. The medina is the heart of the city (a UNESCO World Heritage site) and stalls like Aladdin’s caves are festooned with leather slippers which could whisk you off on a magic carpet in a nano second. Colourful bags, pashminas, spices, gold and silver filigree jewellery and bright hand-painted ceramics line the narrow alleyways jostling for attention.

A whistle stop tour of Carthage (a UNESCO World Heritage site) and the Roman remains bring Tunisia’s historical and often turbulent past into focus. Crumbling pillars, smooth marble arches and walls of rough sandstone are the remnants of once great Roman baths. Silent and eerie with whispers and voices long gone.

A stroll through the impossibly pretty village of Sidi Bou Said is unmistakably Moorish and reminiscent of Andalucia and even Santorini. Dazzling whitewashed houses with turquoise doors and windows are draped with bougainvillea in bright tangerine, raspberry red and rose pink. Patios and courtyards are cool and tiled in cute ceramics floor to ceiling.

The city of Nabeul houses the tiny archaeological Neapolis Museum and is perfectly curated to house exquisite excavations with mosaics, carvings, terracotta statues and amulets from before the Roman period. An outdoor lunch in Dar el Gaied boutique hotel nearby was simply delicious and, surrounded by lush foliage and fronded palms, was literally unforgettable. To experience “zhar” (rose water) making and the fiery harissa (a hot chilli paste eaten with local bread), we go to Ezemnia, a brave enterprise by a local businesswoman who proves that setting out on your own is a cool idea!

We visit Zaghouan and lunch at an eco-friendly farmhouse. A traditional property, the grounds are alive with animals from ostriches, horses, dogs, chickens and roosters and a kitchen garden provides fresh vegetables for the restaurant. Set in luxuriant gardens of hibiscus in purple and yellow and more bougainvillea, the riot of colour and the scent of jasmine is overwhelming.

To witness the abandoned Berber village of “Zriba El Olia” reminds me that Arabs arrived in Tunisia in the Middle Ages and brought Islam with them and the indigenous Berbers even predate the Arab conquests. Today, the Berbers are in minority and Tunisians mainly identify as being of Arab descent.

Sousse is Tunisia’s third city (after Tunis and Sfax) and its fortified walls enclose the medina – another senses overload. A private museum “Al Taieb” is a contemporary art collection where a blend of extraordinary pieces from sculptures to wall hangings to furniture to ceramic mosaics is houses on several floors of the artist’s original home. Its quirky. Think Salvador Dali meets Picasso meets Gaudi.

The city of Kairouan has a unique claim fame as home of the Grand Mosque, one of the most prestigious sanctuaries of the Islamic World. Third in importance to Mecca, the Grand Mosque of Kairouan is a magnificent monument. Clothed in a djellaba to cover my arms, legs and head, I wander through the vast courtyard, peeking in doors to carpeted prayer rooms, I feel the intense reverence of such a holy site. The water basins (Aghlabids) built in the 3^rd century are considered the most important hydraulic feats in the Islamic world and supplied the city with water. I get a potted history from local “treasure” wearing his traditional garb. A carpet factory is next and if I didn’t fly with Ali Baba here I never will. It was carpets on every surface and every hand tufted strand and knot was a miracle of artistry and craft. Women are the artists and, not adhering to any pattern, they design by memory and work from the back of the carpet only, not even seeing the final reveal until the end. Genuine magic carpets in Societe Tapis Allani.

A trip to Mahdia (where Tunisians like to holiday) is a vision of loveliness where the panoramic coastline sparkles with powder sugar sand and amethyst seas. The city is renowned for its green doors. The Roman amphitheatre of El Jem (a UNESCO World Heritage site), hailing from nearly 2,000 years ago is another extraordinary feat of architecture and an unexpected sight. Gladiators and wild beasts fought for supremacy and the colosseum could rival Rome any time.

Tunisia has a film route too with movies such as Star Wars, the English Patient, Monty Python and Indiana Jones being shot here at various locations. I didn’t get as far as the desert this time and I think the food slowed me down! Tunisian cuisine is mouthwatering and staples like couscous, kebabs, tagines et al are hard to resist. I even learned how to make “makroudh”, a sweetmeat made from semolina flour and stuffed with dates. I reckon that’s how they got the figs into fig rolls!

Our final hotel is TUI Suneo Royal Kenz – another lovely all-inclusive property in the resort of El Kantaoui. Landscaped grounds, delicious food, spacious rooms and attentive service make for a comfortable base. Hop into the Port of El Kantaoui, a purpose- built resort around the attractive marina, ideal for an early evening stroll.

Believe it or not, Tunisia is home to nine UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Must be a record. I only got to see three this time, but I shall be back.

DETAILS:

Flights: TUI operates a weekly flight each Monday into Enfidha airport on a Boeing 737-800 series operated by Air Explore. Flight duration is 3.5 hours.

Currency: Tunisian Dinar. 1 euro = 3 Dinar approx. Costs of living is very low, so you’ll get great bang for your buck! A note of caution though – it’s illegal to take dinar out of the country (and you will be stopped at the airport on return), so spend it all before you leave.

Transport: It’s not advisable to drive and not good for the nerves! Taxis are cheap and plentiful. Yellow for local and Louages (inter-city) are white and red and only cost a few paltry dinars.

Information: Hotel receptions can advise local transport options and pre-book on your behalf. Contact Tunisian National Tourist Office for full information, needs and advice.

• Email: info@discovertunisia.uk
• Phone: +44 20 7224 5561
• Website: https://www.explore-tunisia.com/ie-en

Locals: Local Tunisian people are very warm, kind, curious and good humoured. The majority are modern Muslims who are forward thinking and progressive.